Mr. Chev
Well Known Member
just so you know, those rockers wont fit under stock covers without risers and was the reason I got the PLM's
Been a minute.....
- Thread starter Iowa409
- Start date
They fit under my stock covers. No risers just a thick gasket.
Mr. Chev
Well Known Member
It is a brand, I bought these from a great member here, but like others have said a thick gasket should work.
PML valve covers.
Mr. Chev
Well Known Member
PML Valve Covers for Chevy 348, 409 Engines
PML valve covers for Chevy 348, 409 V8 turbo thrust W motors.
yourcovers.com
Tom is correct, it's PML. I am a dealer but would have to get pricing. All the W covers with any kind of script went up in $ the 1st of the year.
Another thing that can mess with your adjustment. When getting the nut adjusted to zero lash be sure your socket is not touching/pushing on the rocker ball. This can give you a false sense of zero lash! Like I said in an earlier post, with the stock 3/8-24 thread rocker stud and a stock ratio rocker, 1 full turn past zero lash will preload the lifter .065. The plunger in the lifter probably has .150 travel available or more. Once you have it adjusted you can physically compress the plunger more and see this. With the intake off it is real easy to see when the lifters plunger starts to move below the retaining clip in the top of the lifter. After watching several Youtube episodes on this subject I thought "Cutter's Performance" was the best with the least amount of drama & bs. Just my opinion. "Myvintageiron 7512" is pretty good also except he doesn't know the difference between his thumb and middle finger! And I hope I don't offend anyone, but why do people tuck the top of their ears under their cap. If they are cold get a cap with ear flaps like I wore on the farm in the winter when doing chores.
Jeff
409Kid
Well Known Member
I’m sorry I haven’t read all of the posts. I don’t recommend that you put new lifters against a used cam for the same reason you don’t put used lifters on a new cam. Or swap lifters from one line to the next. You’re setting yourself up for premature failure of both items.
Yes there is ALOT of back story to this, this cam is new, as in less than 100 miles on it,2 break in oil changes etc bla bla bla, i know the cam could have been hurt in this process, but I do not think so, somebody in here figured out I was using the wrong base starting position/zero lash, and adjusting while my valves were in the wrong zero position, that simple I think. No injured parts, mis-adjusted only.
I AM changing the the percision lifters, out for the deep dish Mellings, re use push tubes, all clear, straight, my only thought of additional change is going with a roller tip rocker set, 1.75?? which will still require proper lash adjustment. Then do I need to change rocker studs? thread in or pressed in? 7/16 or 3/8? I have more research before I can start firing up the spend department. I do not want to remove the heads again, so dpending on the stud change process if needed, can be done while, in the car then I am ok with it. I did not even want to take the intake off but had to, its sealed very well, no leaks, vacum or any other defects that way.
I am not sure they are worth the $500, for a street application, I am running stock 817 heads, stock springs for 340 hsp from Show Cars.
so in my thinking, run stock rockers, or take this oppertunity to get the rollers, what is the advantage? then my final thought....
does it pass the N test, NICE or NEEDED.......
I THINK AS IT SITS RIGHT NOW, if I put it all back together properly, it would be just fine, as is.
BUT... this is the time to improve.
Last edited:
So you have 817 heads with stock 340hp springs and an aftermarket cam. Are the springs compatible with the cam? From reading the post I am guessing you have the stock 3/8 press in studs. If you have the rockers off, put a straight edge across the top of the studs on each head. As long as they are very equal they are probably fine at this point. If some are noticeably higher you may have issues. The only screw in stud you could possibly do/install in the car would be the Mr Gasket 1076 stud. Not sure if they are available new but you can find them on eBay.
Jeff
Jeff
Just got off the phone with Comp Cam spoke to Kenneth, of course he is saying not to run new lifters on a used cam also.
If I have to go back with a new cam he recommended the 48-802-11 off the shelf they are out of 409 blanks at the moment.
Then use 89591-16 lifters, my stock rockers, change valve springs and push tube length. The 1.7 rollers they have, versus the 1.75 doing the math is significant loss, of lift using 1.7 according to him and his conversion charts, several thousandth.
How bout NO
Melling lifters, same cam, readjust and call it good, he was talking roughly $13-1400 roughly parts, this is not a track car, its a street fun car build.
So I am going to try and keep that in mind I guess.
If I have to go back with a new cam he recommended the 48-802-11 off the shelf they are out of 409 blanks at the moment.
Then use 89591-16 lifters, my stock rockers, change valve springs and push tube length. The 1.7 rollers they have, versus the 1.75 doing the math is significant loss, of lift using 1.7 according to him and his conversion charts, several thousandth.
How bout NO
Melling lifters, same cam, readjust and call it good, he was talking roughly $13-1400 roughly parts, this is not a track car, its a street fun car build.
So I am going to try and keep that in mind I guess.
Since you’ve been doing the adjustment wrong why not do it right with the lifters that are on the cam now? Is there something wrong with them?
People have been putting new lifters on used cams for years. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
I a few instances when I have reused hydraulic lifters (putting them back on the lobe they were mated to) I put them in an arbor press and slowly pressed on the plunger pushing the oil out. Then they would function just like a new lifter that wasn't pumped up when looking at preload.
Jeff
Jeff
Jeff I like that idea, if the goal is to keep this set in there, I have a vise and a 20 ton press, in the older days I used to watch guys smack plunger with a hammer /punch, I wont do that.... yes they are all filled with oil at the moment, in the car, ready to be plucked out. Keep in mind these current lifters are the second set of new lifters, so if I change them this would be the 3rd new set. I was thinking these deeper plunger Mellings might be better built or at least american made, that being said, this current set, the car ran great, just heard the noise, so THAT second set mated pretty well to the cam (used cam spookiness) I think? I am getting back on the car tommorow I hope.