(312) 63 Impala

[blkblk63ss]

I removed the drip rail molding"s and it had some surface rust there. I sanded and applied por 15 to
That areas you don"t want a big buildup of primer and paint or it will be harder to get trim back on .After the trim is back on I just taped off trim and primed the gutter and painted next to trim along with the roof.

 

[tripower]

Not sure on 63 but I assume the trim is held on with push in clips around the wheel house and you can't reach in to squeeze the pins together. I use a piece of long flat bar to apply pressure on the pin or even hit it a few times with the flat bar and then put some pressure on it with a pry bar from the outside and the clip will pop out. For the stainless around the front and rear windshields cut the rubber away as Leo says, then locate the clips. I use a small pry bar and the trim comes right out. The drip rail moldings remove the A pillar moldings and roof rail moldings first, then I like to take a measurement from the front so I know where to start it when putting it back on. I start in the back on the bottom prying on the corner just enough to get the edge of the molding up past the gutter rail. Once you have the molding started over the gutter rail you don't need any tools. Just keep rolling the drip rail molding while pulling in line with the molding and it will roll right off and then it goes back on the same way starting in the front at the measurement you took prior to removing. I have done lots of them and it only takes a few minutes.

 

[Joe R.]

Guys, thank you for the insight. This weekend, I will try to remove the trim and glass. I will keep you posted! After that, I think I'm down to rear quarter glass and dash removal. May need help there, too.
Today, I am going to Joliet, IL to buy my new frame. I'm very excited!

 

[Joe R.]

The windshield and rear window trim was tricky, but I took my time and was able to get all off without any damage. Moved on to the dash and things went pretty well. I got stuck on the ignition switch (I don't have a key) and the head light/dimmer switch. Can't seem to get either of those out. any thoughts? I've also decided to hire a glass guy to remove the front and rear glass. I don't want to break them.
I was looking at the fire wall and noticed a couple hand written numbers. They are on the outside of the fire wall as well. Any idea what they mean? I will post pictures.
Thursday, I bought the frame from Jason. He will be sending it to be powder coated. Thanks again Ragtp66! Jason was very helpful. I sold the Corvette engine and trans to a guy from Minneapolis. He drove down yesterday. He's owned a '64 corvette and for 30 years he has been looking for the correct dated engine and he said that this is it. He was ecstatic to say the least. His car was a 3 speed as well, so he bought everything! I was happy to sell it to him.
I hope to have the body on a rotisserie in a couple weeks. As these things go, I'm getting very deep into this, so why stop now! I've decided I want to have the body shell "blasted" and primed. Anyone know a quality shop for this type of work in the Chicago area?
Lastly, does anyone need a mint blue ('64?) Impala rear seat? I also have an 1100629 alternator dated 2J11. I am not doing an "numbers" car, so maybe someone needs it.
Here are some pictures.

 

[Joe R.]

Sorry! hit the wrong button.
Pictures.

 

[Joe R.]

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[CASHguzzler409]

Great job, it must be quite a treat to have your son there to help you. Hope he doesn't learn to many bad words...lol
Something to think about before putting your car on the rotisserie, make sure you build a brace between each door to keep
the body from flexing. We made two plates, one goes on the door hinge, with 3 bolts, and the other goes on the door striker plate area, with 3 screws, then welded a bar onto those.

 

[Joe R.]

Great advise! I will do the same.

 

[oldskydog]

pull a doorlock or glovebox lock and take it to a locksmith and he should be able to make a key for the ignition.

 

[4speedman]

What about that alternator, that date code should be on the rear half of the case and be a 42 amp, correct?.Let me know about that.

 

[tripower]

pull a doorlock or glovebox lock and take it to a locksmith and he should be able to make a key for the ignition.

both the door lock and glove box lock have a number on them. The lock smith can make a key off of that number.

 

[blkblk63ss]

On the headlight switch to remove there is a spring loaded button on the back side of the switch housing case that you push down while pulling the knob and shaft out .Then simply turn off retainer screw which look's like you have already loosened.Look's like you are making good progress!!!!!

 

[Joe R.]

Thanks guys!
The alternator is dated 2 J 11 as far as I can tell. I will check again tomorrow.
I had a key made from the door lock. It opens the trunk but does not work in the ignition switch.
I will look for that spring loaded button on the back of the switch housing tomorrow.
Joe

 

[Impala60]

Glad to see that there are more young folks who are interested in these cars! Now I'm 18 myself, but when I was younger, I was always hanging out & helping my dad when he was building something in the garage. Nowadays it's the other way - I do most of the building and my dad is watching and helping me.

Good looking work with the Impala. Great that you found a better frame for it. It's going to be a good looking car when done (Especially when it looks good already )!

 

[Joe R.]

Impala60, you are one of the reasons my son and I have been "fearless", so to speak. We watched many builds on this sight and are continuously amazed at the challenges that guys like you and others overcome! We believe that we can do this too, and on a budget.
Again, a member on this sight pointed me in the right direction and I was able to get the new frame.
As for Colin, he's probably the only kid in the neighborhood that knows the difference between a 5/8 and 9/16 wrench, or even what a wrench is. But, I'm just happy he's doing stuff with me. It's been great!

 

[Impala60]

I'm happy to hear that I've been able to inspire you guys! And it's true - working like that is a lot of fun, much better way to spend your free time than watching television or surfin' in the internet as that's what some of my friends do quite a lot.

I'll keep watching this one. I've always liked how '63 looks.

 

[Joe R.]

Here is a picture of the alternator.

 

[Joe R.]

Well, I sold the seat and the alternator. That helps the budget! We pulled the glass and the remaining trim. Thank you everyone for your advise! I did remove the drip rail trim. I used a large flat screwdriver and gently started to work it from one end and it came off nicely. I referenced the posted shop manuals to figure out how to remove the quarter glass and it worked. No problems. Our last hurdle was the rear bumper. I could not loosen the bolts. Since the frame is damaged and being replaced, I removed the body bolts and gas tank and was able to get the body off the frame. Once up about a foot, I was able to cut the frame to get the bumper off and save the brackets. A reciprocating saw is a great tool! I am waiting on the new frame. It as at the powder coater and I hope it is ready next week. My rear frame bracing and suspension parts came from Global West yesterday. Lastly, I decided to get the shell soda blasted. I think it will be money well spent. I will manually strip the doors, hood and trunk. Things a moving along!

 

[63 dream'n]

Move'n right along.........nice

 

[Jim Sullivan]

What great progress!