1966 SBC 327 .060" overbore question

[Tom Kochtanek]

I don't know the SBC all that well, but a local fellow has a 1966 327 block and heads (double hump) and he's asking $400. States that the machine work is fresh but heads need rebuilt. Comes with a crank turned 10/10. The block has been bored to .060" over.

Thinking of making a temporary replacement for a 1963 Chevy I own.

Thanks in advance!

TomK

 

[58 Apache]

Tom a .060 overbore small block is a iffy thing. If it is thick enough sounds like an ok deal. Do you need it to be period correct for the car?

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

Derry:

i was thinking of removing the existing 340 horse 327 and putting it in storage. i had hoped to craft a temporary "driver" replacement that I could beat on and not worry about destroying. So I want it to "look" like a 1963 327 engine. It'd be a cinch to stuff a 350 in there, but I want to get that "1963 look".

Cheers!

TomK

 

[chevymusclecars]

Derry:

i was thinking of removing the existing 340 horse 327 and putting it in storage. i had hoped to craft a temporary "driver" replacement that I could beat on and not worry about destroying. So I want it to "look" like a 1963 327 engine. It'd be a cinch to stuff a 350 in there, but I want to get that "1963 look".

Cheers!

TomK

The .040 over would't scare me if it doesn't shown any core shift. The other choice is to tell the person you will buy it based on having a sonic test, that will tell you the cylinder wall thickness. I built one last winter for the Chevelle convertible and it runs great.

Bill

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

Quick update. I picked up the block and heads and crank and a box full of pistons, rods, and a cam. Camshaft was a solid lifter. Block part number is "3858174" dated "B 4 6" (February 4, 1966). Heads were the "782461" castings with "A 6 6" date codes. They appear to match the block. Suffix on the block reads: "F 02 II HCH". Not sure what that means.

Owner had the shop bill for the rough bore just under .060" (finish hone to fit new pistons) and the 10/10 cut on crank, line bore as well. He did magnaflux and sonic check before boring. I know the machine shop, they do quality speed work. I think that's what made me take the plunge.

This might have been a 350 horse solid lifter 327 out of a 1966 Corvette?

I'll run the parts over to my machine shop next week for further evaluation, then decide what to do with it. I suspect the heads alone are worth what I paid for the whole set of components.

One thing I do know about SBC parts is that they are a lot lighter than 409 parts! I was able to lift everything out the van by myself .

Cheers!

TomK

 

[Don Jacks]

Tom,the 350 hp 327 engine had a hydralic cam.The only prduction solid cam [small block] in 1966 was the 365-[carbed-375-fuel injection]"30-30'cam.Are your pistons flat topped or domed? A really good choice in cams for that combo,especially in a heavy car,would be the Comp Cams Extreme Energy 262..It has a little more lope at idle than the l-79 cam[350 hp 327] ,a lot more bottom end and mid-range power [just right for "showing off" on the street],and isnt bad on fuel.What are the valve sizes on those "461's",202-160,0r 194-150?The 194-150 valve heads would be from a 275 horse 327,the 202-160 valve size were for the 350 and up hp.engines.Either one will make a decent street head,but the large valve heads wont really make any more hp until your past 5000 rpm.Those "old tech"solid cams,especially with stock valve train pieces required very frequent valve adjustments.Do you want to play with it,or work on it is the only question .

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

Don:

The pistons are flat topped, with four indentations each. Don't have the cam, but the seller mentioned in was solid lifter. Valves appear to be 202-160.

Thanks for the recommendation on the 262 cam. I actually enjoy tinkering, most of my 409 engines are solid lifter builds. It's become routine to adjust regularly .

Am thinking of putting this together with something close to "350 horse specs". I noted that link provided in another thread to National for a small journal SBC engine kit, but I'd need to substitute a few things (cam, pistons). This could be fun! Certainly a lot less expensive than the freshly built stock stroke 409 truck engine I finished last year!

Cheers!
TomK

 

[DonSSDD]

I have a set of those 461's (may even be from a 66), they were 194's, someone made them 202's and one of the valves leaked anti freeze on an exhaust port. They were in the "rebuilt" 327 in my 63 vette, it started blowing steam out the tailpipe. I replaced them with a set of 194's. So be careful with the valve seats, the 202 heads had hardened seats and that is where the machining problem was.

Don

 

[Don Jacks]

JMO,but for Toms intended use,the 194-150 valve size would be the best anyway.

 

[62impala409]

JMO,but for Toms intended use,the 194-150 valve size would be the best anyway.

That X2, GM is building all their SB crate motors like the ZZ4 etc. with 1.94 intake valves for improved low end torque. BTW, My 65 L79 motor had pop up forged 11 1/4 to 1 pistons.. The flat tops in 65/66 were 275 horse. I sold the motor to a street rodder because it needed REALLY GOOD FUEL to run without pinging. Leo

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

Good advise!

My objective would be to closely "duplicate" the looks and performance of the original engine, a 327/340 horse solid lifter build from 1963. Just looked at GM aluminum intakes from that era and it appears that it will cost more than the components I now have . Want to stick with GM parts where they are most obvious (block, heads, intake, carb, dizzy, air cleaner, etc.

Best,
TomK

 

[Don Jacks]

Why not pick up a used Edelbrock performer RPM[paint to match engine] ?I'tll out perform the factory intakes buy a bunch,and under the air cleaner,only your hairdresser would know.If youve got one,an AFB from a 400hp 409 would be ideal for this engine,both from a looks and a performance standpoint.Wilh a couple of "po-boy"mods to those heads ,360 hp will be a snap.

 

[409newby]

I just saw a winters small block intake from that era at a friends shop, I could ask him if its for sale. Let me know Pat

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

Pat:

Thanks for the offer!

If it's available and at a fair price, I might be interested.

Give me a chance to figure out which direction I am going with this, then I'll let you know. Figured I'd ask my buddy James what he might recommend. We do the swap meet thing, and a bit of barn snooping .

Best,
TomK

 

[yellow wagon]

You realize you will have to port those heads right? Mandatory on a fun little engine such as this one. You can hone your grinding skills and free up some HP in the process! Sounds like a nice project and nothing wrong with a SBC. They run hard and run forever!

 

[k9hotrodder409]

I still have my old drag motor 327/.060 over on a engine cradle in my garage. I sold the top end a few years ago.= 2/340292 heads with crane roller rockers and jomar stud girdle, screw in studs Chevrolet powerbook titanium caps and stainless valves and triple springs.= edelbrock tunnel ram with 2 /650 holleys=Accel B.E.I.dist bronze gear. That motor will still be a great drag motor. It only needs to be freshened up. I can't bring my self up to selling it. It last run in 1984.
Butch

 

[oldskydog]

Tom.
The intake you need for the 63 340hp is 3794129 It's almost identical to the 3795397 which is for the 62 340 hp engine. The main difference is the configuration of the throttle bores and can't be seen with the carb on . Unfortunately, both of these are in high demand by the Corvette guys. You want to look for the guy that has one that doesn't know, or care about Corvettes or originality. To him it's just an old factory aluminum intake. He would probably trade it to you for an Edelbrock, or other el cheapo, but shiny intake. The 64-65 350hp/365 hp intake is 3844461 and again is visually identical to the 63 intake except for the 1.59 throttle bores on all holes.
I have one of each of these as well as a 66-67 490 which is for my 67 Nova. I do have some extra 461 heads (1.94) but they are 64 or 65's. The correct heads for 63 are the 461X heads which only were produced for the 61-63 years, but are visually the same markings and look and function the same.
The correct AFB is 3461 but again, these are expensive unless you find one on a 300hp pass car engine. The later 64 carb was 3721 and is more common as it was used on the 300hp pass cars as well as the Corvette. I have several of these if you need one.
You should be asking which of our members has a 63 327 engine sitting in the corner of the garage from a 409 upgrade.
Come to think of it, I have a December 62 870 block somewhere in my stash that was going to be a spare for my 63. These things are out there and most of the guys on Craigslist don't know what they are. You have to ask about the numbers and then try to be polite when you try to tell him that he doesn't have a super rare Corvette engine.....he will probably ignore you anyway and keep advertising it trying to snag a fish.
Arm yourself with knowledge. The best defense is to know the rules better than the other guy.

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

Cecil:

Thanks for the insights, that will certainly guide me in my decision making. The objective is to recreate the "look" of the 60s with some minor internal changes. I can always snag the intake off my existing SBC (the 340 horse 327) until I find a suitable substitute. My current engine is just a bit "worn" and I want to save it for the next guy who might desire that numbers matching engine. I figured if I rebuilt that original 327 I'd surely have to test it, and with my luck, I'd detonate something . I'd rather flog a close sibling that is worth much less!
Cheers!
TomK

 

[oldskydog]

Here's another option and not too far away.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-...963-corvette-360hp-fi-rf-870-short-block.html

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

An "RF" code block, pretty rare! Thanks for the heads up .

TomK