I tend to go overboard but this is what I did to mine.
Rear suspension tech/info needed
- Thread starter 4Eyedturd
- Start date
I made my brace so it would run as a continuous line of the lower arm.
I still need to add another piece on the front of the outrigger to the frame to continue the line. If that makes sense.
I still need to add another piece on the front of the outrigger to the frame to continue the line. If that makes sense.
How much weight you think you,ve added??? Will you weigh it when done?
I'm sure I have added weight. The rust wasn't even holding hands anymore. It would be nice the weigh the car, but really doesn't matter. I wanted a safe car. Any of the added reinforcement my help the car work better or maybe not. I'm not heads up racing and know I can't outrun the guys with money dripping off there cars. I race to get my need for speed fix and to peg my fun meter.
What Nate did is exactly the trick. As important as strengthening the lower mount is, dropping the mount is just as important for locating IC properly. Have done a best 1.33 60' time with Wully Bully, and have plotted out multiple others' cars and offered suggestions that made them work!
The frame has a upper and lower bolt holes for lc arm front mount to attach to frame. Using the lower bolt hole would that be enough ???
I am not sure, to be honest. All of the frames I have ever seen only have the single hole. You want to drop it down about 3", but everything needs to be plotted out to say for sure. Ideal set up is the bolt holes on the lower bar are equal distance from the ground to slightly high in the front, factory set up they point up pretty far. My instant center is around the bottom of the rocker panel.
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I can understand how that would help eliminate wheel hop because the axle would be pushing more ahead than the higher point would be trying to push frame upward which would tend to lose traction. That's the way I see it??? I have noticed the z11 cars all seemed to be skuated low in rear and high in front. That was probaly the purpose.
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64 Impala - Rear Control Arm Mounting Holes - Chevy Message Forum - Restoration and Repair Help
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The high nose position was believed to improve weight transfer, that was the thinking of the time anyway.
This is one we worked on last spring. Added a new control arm mount to factory frame mount. Boxed in factory frame mount and added a reinforcing tube from the bottom of the control arm mount to the frame. The hole that the bolt is in will make the lower arm level when everything is set properly.
It sure did . Back in the day when I had a new 64 ss 409 and raced it I would load up the front springs with those twist in spacers. I noticed right away I did not lose any hesitation so to speak on take off since the horse power did not have to lift the front up since it was already up . I would remove spacers after racing. I only raced two times on track so it wasn't like I did it a lot . Had more spunk those days lol.
All of my mounting points are in the factory locations. I have added the passenger upper arm. Not sure I make enough power for all the extra work of moving mounting points. My car has it's best times when I have tire spin off the line.
Back when I had the 64 I had slicks and front raised up on it and dumps open getting ready to race next day I practiced coming off line with rpms . Highway was freshly chatted were I lived in country growing up. I came off line and only laid about two feet rubber marks (posi) after moving I folded both front floor mats over had to quit mat got tangled up in my foot petals passenger was folded over also. I count not believe it. Guess that's called a launch. Sure wish I still had that car.
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In regards to the original posting, more info is needed, and its really hard to diagnose what is happening without seeing it. What do your made arms look like? Did you move any mounts? Stick cars and radial slicks do not work! Are the tires bouncing or the suspension? After seeing what is happening then you can start diagnosing the solution.
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johnnyriviera
Well Known Member
I agree that stick car and radials don't work. I was stubborn, but life got much easier when I made the switch.
Made arms are just straight DOM with the spring perches in the stock spot. I’ll get a picture this weekend as I’ll make the 4th arm. I transfered the original rear end mounts to a 9” and while I’m confident I put them in the original spot, I can’t help but second guess. I never drove the car beforehand so that doesn’t help. Right now with just a street tire I was hoping for at least a smoky burnout but got violent wheel hop. I’ll see if I can get a video
Good shocks go a long way. Stick cars and radials are definitely becoming more popular and people are getting them to work as good and sometimes better. The clutch, shocks, and power management are key. I don’t have the desire to spend a season trying to make radials work. I’ll stick with bias ply. Plus radials aren’t forgiving on a mediocre surface.
Some more ideas for lower mounts using stock stuff. Lowered 3 inches, little better instant center, especially with adjustable upper mounts. Sounds like you found the GW catalog already 
