Oil leak at filter conversion

models916

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
The newer version that takes the Ford filter clears up all the problems the original had. The Ford version gets tighter to the block and seals better as you tighten it. Has the bypass in the filter, used a bolt on boss to hold the flat plate. Also in general, there is a bell housing bolt that can contact the inner base and cause a leak you should check first.
 

Randy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
That gasket must be a little over sized. As for the nipple and nut that came with the conversion kit , instead of using that formed sheet metal nut, after a oil leak, I bought the same size nut at the hardware store that would work on the nipple and put on loctite on the nipple just because it came loose at the adaptor after a little while and I got a oil leak around the filter. As for that nut, I did grind it down to the same size as the old nut that came with the kit. Again using locrite on the nut and nipple, let it set over night and I was ready for the filter. No more leaks, and I do check the filter often for tightness but it has been fine for a couple years now. Good luck on your project.
 

brushwolf

Well Known Member
Yes, I had read of the numerous instances of the bellhousing bolt encroaching and since motor is on stand I marked outside of block so I can tell depth limit from outside of block when bellhousing does get attached. I had a short stainless hex head bolt in there that is a good quarter inch deep in the hole so it is not interfering at this point. Good to know the gasket can be found if it is oversized. I let it sit in recess overnight so maybe it will conform better. It comes wrapped up tight in tape so it is all out of shape when unpackaged. I will give it a shot with some oil on it and if that does not work then either replace it or go back to the canister. Should have read these threads before I bought it and if all the hassles other people had were near what they appear to be, plus this new wrinkle on top of that to contend with, the path of least resistance seems to be just using the original setup. But those cartridges generally are a mess when I have changed them in the past.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
You get used to it,at least I did back in the day when oil changes on these cars was an everyday occurance. I even remember what a pita some of those first 68 models were to do that first oil change.:hammer
 

brushwolf

Well Known Member
Even though it contradicts the directions, I put gasket in first after oiling it did not do much. Then bypass adapter since there is a minimal taper on engine side of bypass adapter our edge. Can't tell if it went in correctly since filter adapter covers most of groove with bolts tightened down. Had a PF 25 AC filter on the shelf for years and that seems to fit fine, probably good enough to paint, prelube and see if it leaks on startup. Not much of a plan, hope.. But, if it leaks I think the canister is going back on.
 

64ss409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 9
If you go back to the canister, you still have the same gasket that has to be replaced every time, and the same bypass valve.:)

And clean the canister,,,,,,,,,,,
 
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1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
On replacing that pal nut. Mustangs up to 1969 used 3/4"-16 spindle nuts, about .380 thick, readily available
 

brushwolf

Well Known Member
On the canister-equipped motors, the bypass plate has to be removed to change oil and square gasket? Or just the square gasket that is supposed to slip around perimeter of bypass adapter? Wonder if my new bypass adapter has larger perimeter than the original bypass adapter?
 

64ss409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 9
The square gasket gets hard from heat. Sometimes you can get it out with a pick, sometimes you have to remove the bypass valve to get it out.
 

brushwolf

Well Known Member
This version of adapter has no pal nut at all and nipple is too short for one. So I just put red loctite on it. I suppose I could get a longer nipple and than use one but I would think the loctite would be sufficient being the other end of nipple has oil on the threads.
 

Geary Trussell

Well Known Member
I had a leak similar to yours, very small. After new gasket, re torquing it still leaked. I took it back apart and inspected the adapter plate and found a very very small crack (found it under magnification) . I replaced the adapter . No leak.
 

63impalass409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I plan on keeping the old canister on both my 409 cars and my 65 396. Would much rather deal with cleaner a canister than talking a chance with a leak. I have never had a problem with this style since I began messing with cars in 1985 and I love the stock original look.
 
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