Hard to push in clutch...

[409 question please]

I have a good friend who recently purchased a very spendy 1962 Chevy hardtop clone 409 / 4 speed car. It would be a nicer ride if you didn't have to use both feet to push the clutch in. We just changed out the HD pressure plate, clutch and throw out bearing sadly with no change in effort to depress the clutch. Is the length of the clutch fork arm different from the small block version verses the 409 application. I am guessing the previous owner just used all the small block Z bar, linkage, adjusting rod, clutch fork arm, etc when the changed to the 409 engine and 4 speed. If there is a difference how do I tell and where can we get the right parts. I am just a '32 Ford /small block Ford guy so I am in need of your help. No fun to have just spent $48K for a car that is a pain in the leg to drive. Thanks Dave in Spokane

 

[Skip FIx]

Diaphragm pressure plate or Borg and Beck 3 finger?

 

[RussC]

The bell crank likely is installed backwards

 

[our1962]

Like mentioned above something isn't right, I've put plenty 409's in small block cars and worked fine with manual applications and used existing mechanisms just changed the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing.

 

[La Hot Rods]

I took out a 6 cylinder and installed a 409 with all the 6 cylinder parts and worked fine.



Maybe you can see something in these pictures that doesn't look correct in the car in question.

 

[409 question please]

Just got back from my friend's shop to find out exactly what was changed. Yes is a diaphragm style pressure plate (with new clutch disc and a new throw out bearing). The old pressure plate was a HD (Center force?) Thanks for all of the info. I will study it carefully and then go compare with car owner's set up. Appreciate all the input and the quick replies. Dave

 

[pvs409]

I have restored and sold all the clutch linkage for 1962's (and other years )and used the small block linkage and 409 stock linkage (Z bar is the only difference)
My 3 -1962's have stock linkage (Z bar might be different in one of them). Minimal effort on my 62's to push the clutch on 2-409 cars and one 327 car

You could have the wrong clutch linkage (post a picture of the linkage with clutch fork -I can tell if its not stock linkage -,mixing years of clutch linkage can cause problems 1961 is one year by itself. 1962 linkage is a one year design
.
A stock 409 clutch fork uses a pin on top of the clutch fork and a non adjustable lower rod(shown in the first picture posted by La Hot rods) . All the clutch adjustment is in the upper push rod on 1962 to 1963 Chevrolet passenger cars. I have a lower threaded rod on one of my 409s from a 59-60 clutch linkage

what brand and part number clutch and pressure plate was installed ?
I switched to McLeod clutch (Street Pro)one of my 62 409 with a stroker motor and a TKX 5 speed (530 HP)
I removed a center force setup in one of my 409s.
My clutches are all diaphragm style pressure plates

Paul

 

[327]

 

[409 question please]

Hey guys, I will stop by my friends shop and get the exact pressure plate/clutch disc/throw out bearing brand and numbers. I will also stop at car owner's house and get the best picture of the linkage. Thanks again for all of your help with this. Dave

 

[409 question please]

Update ...today I did stop by my friend's shop and was told they installed a" LUK clutch kit" (a Napa product specific to that application) They also had told the car owner that if this didn't solve the problem, the linkage would be the next possibility to look at. He took the car home telling me nothing had changed. Tomorrow I will attempt to get good pictures of the linkage. Dave

 

[RussC]

The bell crank is likely in backwards

 

[409 question please]

You can do that? Is that switched end for end (frame mounting verses bell housing mount?) or are we talking that the bell crank is rotated putting the rod from the clutch pedal is where the rod from the clutch fork arm should be connected? Back to you can do that? Hopefully getting a good photo today will answer that. Dave

 

[pvs409]

Take pictures of upper clutch linkage and lower clutch linkage and clutch fork

 

[RussC]

Switched end to end. The long arm on top…the short one below

 

[1964SuperStocker]

I have a good friend who recently purchased a very spendy 1962 Chevy hardtop clone 409 / 4 speed car. It would be a nicer ride if you didn't have to use both feet to push the clutch in. We just changed out the HD pressure plate, clutch and throw out bearing sadly with no change in effort to depress the clutch. Is the length of the clutch fork arm different from the small block version verses the 409 application. I am guessing the previous owner just used all the small block Z bar, linkage, adjusting rod, clutch fork arm, etc when the changed to the 409 engine and 4 speed. If there is a difference how do I tell and where can we get the right parts. I am just a '32 Ford /small block Ford guy so I am in need of your help. No fun to have just spent $48K for a car that is a pain in the leg to drive. Thanks Dave in Spokane

This is a good topic. Can you change the headline to something like "Hard to push in clutch on 1962 with 409"? That would help people later that want to reference the topic. I had a 1961 Impala Convertible with a 348 that was so hard to push in that the fire wall was flexing. I took it to a shop in Knoxville Iowa called 'Advanced Transmission Auto Center' 641-828-7030 (the only people I trust with my auto/manual transmission builds street or racing) and they fixed it for us. There were multiple year pieces mixed together.

 

[409 question please]

Got some photos, hope this helps. It was point and shoot reaching under the car without jacking it up. See what you think. All help appreciated. Good idea to change he title but can't seem to get it to work. Dave P.S. Like I said just trying to help a friend...my thing is '32 Fords

 

[La Hot Rods]

Look at the pedal under the dash, is the rod in the correct hole?

 

[pvs409]

Upper threaded rod looks correct, clutch fork looks like the factory 409 & 327 clutch fork with no slot in the arm.
looks like a factory aluminum or cast iron bell housing with black removable cover on the bottom of the bell housing.

lower clutch rod ( one end looks like a factory non adjustable lower clutch rod ), can’t see if the end on the clutch fork is factory.

does the clutch have the correct free play when it’s depressed? Should be 3/4 inch to 1 inch of free play before there is resistance to pushing clutch pedal.

you can measure the upper and lower z bar( crossshaft) arms - they both should be 3 & 3/8” long overall length from the shaft to the end of the arm - to work with the linkage that I see in your pictures.

Paul

 

[409 question please]

Thanks for the reply guys. I will try to measure the bell crank arms (might have to wait until I can talk to guy into taking it back to my friend's shop and put it on a hoist. But I will remember 3 3/8". I have never looked on the pedal end of things. Are there more than one position for the clutch rod ? I would assume more leverage would be on the lowest one if there are. I will follow up as quickly as I can. Appreciate it, Dave

 

[La Hot Rods]

More leverage would be on the closest point to the pedal pivot point.