Thermostat

Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Hi everyone. My question is about thermostats. Do any of you have an opinion or experience with what I will call a high flow thermostat?? I think they come with a 1/8" hole drilled into them. You can also drill your own hole in a stock one. I think the purpose is that they allow for a slower engine warmup?? Maybe help with any air lock when changing them out?? Would they control the eventual operating temperature of the engine any better?? Thanks, Carmine.
 
Shaark92

Shaark92

Well Known Member
I used to fiddle/experiment with this on Polly back in HS. Biggest factor was cooling capacity. Radiator large enough and clear enough to exchange the heat enough to make the thermostat work.
I wasn't aware of "high flow" thermostats back then.
none of the thermostats I ever had ever completely closed anyway, but I'm sure that's changed for "modern" automobiles ... they seem to reach normal op temp pretty soon, so that has GOT to be with a closed/severely restricted coolant flow.
good post. Look forward to more in tune additions.
 
Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Why I ask this question, is because my '55 265 engine is under cooled if there is such a thing. It takes forever, even on the hottest July day, to reach operating temperature which is I believe 165 degrees. Sometimes, it stays in the 160 degree range. I contributed to this issue. When I first bought the car 4 years ago, trying to be proactive and avoid any future running hot/overheating issues, I replace the original radiator and 4 blade fan. I installed a 2 row 1 1/8" aluminum radiator and 6 blade fan. Big mistake. I should have run the car first to see what temperature it would go to, but I didn't. Now I have this issue. I should be happy that it doesn't run hot or overheat, but my concern is it not getting hot enough to burn off impurities in the oil?? At least that's what I read. I'm assuming I have a 165 degree thermostat and I'm thinking about putting in a 180 degree one. I don't want to put the old radiator and fan back on. The old radiator could have been a recore?? Not really sure?? That's why I'm soliciting ideas on how to proceed next. I want it to operate correctly, Carmine.
 
Shaark92

Shaark92

Well Known Member
I didn't have that problem with Polly. the .003 bored out 283 ALWAYS ran hotter than I wanted.
yeah, see if you can run 180 degree stat. If you don't have an oil cooler, I can't imagine your oil being "too cool" ... having the heads running 160 isn't too bad. but it IS the source of heat.

Oil temp is a big deal. I'm counseling my missus on that right now. She likes to crank and boogie. I tell her (as an easy to read item) keep RPM below 2500 until the water temp gauge gets in to the middle. (2.7 twin turbo V6 in her F150)
 
JED

JED

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Shaark92 said:
I didn't have that problem with Polly. the .003 bored out 283 ALWAYS ran hotter than I wanted.
yeah, see if you can run 180 degree stat. If you don't have an oil cooler, I can't imagine your oil being "too cool" ... having the heads running 160 isn't too bad. but it IS the source of heat.

Oil temp is a big deal. I'm counseling my missus on that right now. She likes to crank and boogie. I tell her (as an easy to read item) keep RPM below 2500 until the water temp gauge gets in to the middle. (2.7 twin turbo V6 in her F150)
Click to expand...
Yeah, i have the same problem with my wife and her Turbo 4-cylinder Mazda. She starts it and heads for the hills while the temp needle is still buried in the COLD indicator. Not good, especially for a turbo engine. I still haven't been able to get her to change her habit, 'cuz she is always in a hurry.
 
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