stroker kit 409 blown

charlie rogers

Well Known Member
hey guys, looking for options on who sells a 3.76 stroker kit for my 409 truck block {656} it will be a 6-71 blower build that I want to start asap. want compression between 7.5- 8.0 , should add this will be street motor so 93 pump gas is what I will be running, unless I go to the track then I can mix or run straight high octane.
thanks Charlie,,
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Charley,Show cars will have to put together a "kit" for you but the pistons will have to be custom.One off their piston venders is Ross,who can make them for you.If you're going to run iron heads,you'll be better off at 8.5,and aluminum heads will love 9 on pump 93.It can be tricky to get low numbers due to the notch in the truck block,and when having the block bored make sure that they do not put the counter bore back in.I know of a 380 incher on which that mistake was made and it cost him half a point of compression.
 

charlie rogers

Well Known Member
thanks don! I will be running a aluminum head so I will figure that in. I would like to run a 6.385 rod with this setup to get a little better rod ratio for my combo. does anybody know what size snout is on the eagle/ scat cranks ? would like a bbc size to give a little extra strength due to blower strain.
thanks Charlie,,
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Most of the Eagle and Scat cranks are ground to the standard small block/W engine crank snout size.On a street combo that's only going to make 6-8 psi.just have an extra crank keyway ground in it and you'll fine.I'm from the Smokey "Stick the longest rod that you can get in there"school of thought,so yes by all means go with the 6.385 rod.Don't go nuts with the cam!MRHP's little 380 made about 550 hp/ft.lbs of torque running 7psi on just under 8-1,using a flat tappet hyd cam that has 218in/224ex.with a 113 lobe separation,and a 109 intake centerline with a parts friendly 5900 hp peak.While the dyno work was done using race gas,the engine was designed for pump 93 octane fuel.
 
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303Radar

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Be sure to check out Bob Walla's aluminum heads. The vote around here is his heads are better than Edelbrocks. That's what I'm running and if I ever get recovered from my body work costs, I plan on running a Pro-Charger for my forced induction.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Before you buy the pistons, make sure that you decide which head you're going to run.The area around the valves and spark plugs occupy 15 cc's according to Edelbrock.Bob's heads ,maybe 5cc's.This will effect your compression ratio by a fair amount.My vote would be for Bob's heads.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
:yupbalancing should be done only after final adjustments and mock up are done.Show Cars doesn't balance their kits according to Bruce,likely for that very reason.Brian's right about Jack.He knows what is needed as well as how to do it.
 

charlie rogers

Well Known Member
guys you all have been very helpful. I think I will be going with bob w heads and the mcquillen blower intake. I assume you guys are talking about the reliefs cut into the truck blocks to lower comp when you say counter bore correct?? I agree balancing should be done after all mock up and fitting. I started a thread a little over a year about this and had some health issues. now trying to get back on track. btw Don I am a huge fan of the man with the Stetson hat, seemed he used a lot of common sense approach to problems. I will post a couple pics of the car this is going in. its not a impala/ belair so if its not appropriate I will delete them.
thanks Charlie,,,
 
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