409 Finally!

dean409

Well Known Member
Hello everyone! I've looked in on this sight in the past but didn't feel I belonged yet. And now, a long story; My older brother and I bought a garage full of 348-409 parts from a guy going through a divorce back in 1986 for $700. Under the pretense of each building a W(my first car was a 60 Impala 348 powerglide which I still had at that time), we divvied parts up. A couple of the blocks, one 348 and one passenger 409, had major bottom end damage that was unrepairable so those went to the recycler.
My brother purchased a recently departed lady's 1958 Impala and proceeded to build his 409. Bore was clean,so stock pistons went back in,a Crane solid cam(113.5 seperation? ugh!), 7/16" studs and Comp 1.72 magnums went in it,all balanced nice and pretty. Also in the parts pile was a ultra rare '61 small port aluminum intake! Throw in a close ratio Muncie and cast aluminum bell housing! Of course he got those, so I found an Offy dual quad for $50 in a salvage yard. That'll show him. We stabbed the 409 in his '58, his wife got pissed about the time spent on it, threatened divorce, so he sold it. He regrets it to this day, especially that intake. I put the remaining parts in storage, built a nitrous-fed 468 cid '71 Chevelle, then a '71 SS Nova that I later tubbed. I bought the Nova with a frozen 350 for $400,sold the small block for $250,the 12 bolt 3.08 Posi for $300,and spent the next 20 years finishing it. With only paint remaining,some richie kept knocking on my door about buying it. After 3 months of contemplation(one day he showed up with two wads of $100 bills!), I gave in. My only reason: to finally build the 409. Current parts availability for these motors was a huge influence.
Started buying parts like I was possesed or drunk,took the truck block,crank,heads,6.135 h-beams,Ross pistons,2.19/1.72 valves,guideplates,7/16" rocker studs and 6-3/4" damper to my builder. Two weeks later I get a call that the block is cracked 1-1/2" down parallel to the deck surface and about 7" long. I'm devastated! He says he can repair it with pins and JB Weld filler with the head torqued on, then proceed with the build. Everyone I've spoke to(guys who've done this type of repair)tells me the same thing: eventually the spot starts weeping and you're lucky if it never pulls apart. Wha???!!! Any one out there ever go thru this? I am absolutely beside myself!:doh
 

region rat

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Dean, Congrats on your progress. I,ve never done that repair myself, but did weld a 6 cyl that cracked the same way. Always had a little pin hle weep somewhere.A local blacksmith near me said that was hard to beat for someone that knew what he was doing, let alone a guy like me. He said to put in ground red pepper, as a stop leak and I instead put in a tube of that silver leak powder. I know it ran at least 12 years with no problem. Pinning is a good repair and they use sealant on all the threads. Other guys here probably have stories too. Good luck. Bob
 

dean409

Well Known Member
12 years!

Thanks, Bob.
I would love to get 12 years out of such a repair. I'll be using front motor mounts to keep the strain off the block(crack is on the driver's/torque side). Thanx!
 

dq409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Welcome Dean!

That crack is a common problem that is repairable and should give a life time of service without any leaking.
I would not go with the JB Weld route though as that is a bandaid fix but would have it welded by someone experenced with cast welding.

Many of us here are using cracked blocks fixed (cast welded) this way without any problems.

Good luck, dq
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Search this site there is allot of info on this. Some nickel welding rod a tourch some brass filler rod and old welder dude and your good to go. Cast is not hard but it is a slow process. Farmers do this repair all of the time up here as well.
As have I :-)

good luck
 
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