New Guy from Wisconsin

Hi Guys, just a line to introduce myself. Names Chuck Buttweiler from Pewaukee Wi. Not new to the sport, started at age fourteen when I put a 324 Olds motor into a 50 Henry J along with the Hydro and rear end that hung out three inches on each side of the wheel wells. Built numerous cars since than, had a 40 Willy's Coupe all steal before they became famous. A 34 Chevy Outlaw when they first came out. Just gave my son my 55 Chevy that I built 15 years ago, hadn't been drive'n for the last 5 years. Drained gas,new battery fired right up. Very thoughtful of GM to include a drain plug in the tank. Have cars in various stages of completion 49 Chev Fleetline,50 Chev Skyline,64 Grand Prix and a 50 Henry j. So why am I here, a 1963 Chevrolet BelAir 2dr Sedan 409 clone which I'm hoping to finish before next year at this time. "Four speed, dual quad, positraction, 409" don't ya just like the sound of that. Car just got primed today, short block is at the machine shop. I'm planning on doing the heads myself. I came to this site about a month ago and seen some discussion on 333 heads (have a truck motor) installing larger valves 1.72 exhaust and 2.07 intake enlarging bowls yada, yada. Can't find the tread, so if someone remembers it or could send me in a direction on how I might find it I'd really appreciate it. Thanks and Hello Again
 

yellow wagon

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Welcome aboard and interesting enough that you are from WI! I'm in Mount Pleasant. The truck motor build link above is mine so feel free to ask questions should you have any. What machine shop is doing the work on your 409?
 
Welcome aboard and interesting enough that you are from WI! I'm in Mount Pleasant. The truck motor build link above is mine so feel free to ask questions should you have any. What machine shop is doing the work on your 409?

Tom Nickerson of NVR Race Engines in Butler WI is doing the machine work. When I dropped the short block off he had three 409's in different stages of build. This guys been around along time and I'm convinced he knows his poop. He did a 348 for a friend of mine, stroker kit, reworked Edelbrock heads, roller cam & rockers and tripower. He's got it in 39 Ford, really scoot's and gets 15+miles to the gallon. Haven't heard from Tom as to the condition of the block, I know its been tanked, just waiting for him to mic it up so I know which direction I'm going. The engine was rebuilt once before,was bored .030, the crank was standard. I didn't have a mic big enough for the bore to check the taper. Their is a question I have on the heads, when your guy machined for larger valves, these heads I have are machined 30 45 15 degrees did he move the placement of the valve. Can't figure how to change 30degrees to 45degrees without sinking the valves. If I'm thinking wrong let me know..............Chuck
 

k9hotrodder409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 15
Welcome to the site Chuck.:clapGreat group here:hug and lots of info on the "W" engine . Enjoy the ride.

Lots of pics please

:crazy:dance:cheers
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Welcome aboard,Chuck.As to your heads,if youre going to keep the same size valves that you have now,it will likely require new intake valve seats [I've never seen exhaust seats ground at 30].If youre planning on making any power,and going to larger valves,I dont think there will bbe any problem just grinding your 45 degree seat angle into the new,larger valve seat area.I agree with your concern about "sunken" valves,it will cost you power.
 

drc409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Hi Chuck! I used to make frequent business trips from Chicago area up to Waukesha and Brookfield. 'Loved going to Summerfest. Enjoy this site and much success with your 63 409 rebuild.
 
Welcome aboard,Chuck.As to your heads,if youre going to keep the same size valves that you have now,it will likely require new intake valve seats [I've never seen exhaust seats ground at 30].If youre planning on making any power,and going to larger valves,I dont think there will bbe any problem just grinding your 45 degree seat angle into the new,larger valve seat area.I agree with your concern about "sunken" valves,it will cost you power.

The valves on this engine were done once before, they did a 3 angle job 30,45,15. the valves are 45 they did it that way to narrow the margin for the seat. Their done this way on both intake and exhaust, was going with harden seats on exhaust so that's not a problem but didn't want to put harden seats on intake.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Hi Chuck,I've heard from experianced W engine builders here,and never heard of seat replacement when going to larger valves.In fact,a lot of them feel that unless your building a 100 thousand mile engine,you just need stainless steel valves.When you cut for the bigger valves,you now have a fresh place to cut your valve angles,and with new valves,you can put the height where you want it. 207-1.72 valves do wonders for a 333 head,especially with bowl and port work.Best of luck on your build.
 

tripower

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Hardened seats are not necessary and you could easily ruin your heads trying to install them.
 
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