MSD/Accel round coil info

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IgnitionMan

Guest
As most here know, I am in the ignition system business. That said, there is information I'd like to post on coils.

I used to recommend MSD Blaster II and III coils for my HEI conversions. They used to work well. These coils used to be manufactured at Andover Industries, Andover, Indiana, and were of superior quality. In early 2000, production of RED MSD Blaster II and III coils, p/n's 8202, 8203 and 8223, was moved from Andover to a company in Mexico, Pro-Bobbin.

When this happened, I started to experience HEI module failures for no apparent reason. Others did as well, and MSD box failures when the RED Blasters were used. It was so untraceable that the problem would only be found by changing the coil. The cause was the insulation materials between the wire windings was deteroratinf and falling away from the coils, causing a layer shorting of the coils, and change of resistance/load on the module/box and failure of same.

The 8200 chrome Blaster II coils remained at Andover, and had only the regular failure rates one would expect from a mass produced coil, functioned correctly. Sometime last year, production of the 8223 RED Blaster III coils with the HEI terminal,was returned to Andover.

When I finally figured it all out, I switched my recommendations on coils to Accel round Super-Stock, made at Andover. Good quality coils, problems stopped, up until about a month ago. IN the last month, numerous Accel coils, 8140 and 8140C, were coming up either new defective or had operating issues like missing, erratic idle, no performance. This was traced to a move in production in the Accel coils.

Accel was sold earlier this year, off the Dana Corporation, and the Accel coil production was moved form Andover to Taiwan. It was these Taiwan Accel coils that were having the issues. I have vended 19 Taiwan Accel coils in the last month, had 16 of them defective/develope problems with under 2 hours run time on them. No more Accel recommendations for me anymore.

To identify different Accel round Super Stock coils:

Andover Accels have segmented crimping at the top of the case to retain the top, with raised sections around the top.

Taiwan Accels have a clean full crimp around the whole circumfrence of the top of the case.

AVOID THE ACCEL TAIWAN COILS.

Coils and their origins:

MSD,
8200, and now, 8223 Blaster II, III series, Andover, good quality

8202, 8203 Blaster II series, Pro-bobbin, Mexico, avoid

Accel 8140/8140C, 8145/8145C, Taiwan, avoid

A good black coil with the same specs as the good Andover Accel is the NAPA IC12, same specs.
AVOID the lesser cost NAPA IC12SB, Mexico made, low quality

Crane PS20, PS40, Andover, quality

PerTronix, NO, Taiwan, reboxed with USA logo, avoid

Mallory round coils, no info

Jacobs coils, overpriced Taiwan, avoid

Hope this info stops someone from getting a problem coil.
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
Thanks for the heads up Ignitionman! I don't use these products but im sure alot of others here do.

This seems to be the "American way" anymore...have it made somewhere else. I saw "made in Mexico" on my last PF-141 oil filter! I don't know if it's important to their function or not but I have noticed the outer wrap on these filters used to be metal but are now some type of cardboard. :confused:

I don't think there's much that's actually made in the USA anymore. :cry
 

SS425HP

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Out sourcing

Cheaper and easier to go off shore than to put up with EPA and OSHA. Our government is running businesses out of this country. Here in Middletown, The US EPA and the Ohio EPA are trying to fine AK Steel and require 80 Million ( $80,000,000.00 ) dollars of air and environmental controlls. AK also needs to reline the blast furnace to the tune of 100 Million Dollars. They are seriously looking at shutting down the hot end, and going off shore. And I don't blame them. None of the off shore steel companies have to put up with all the BS our government agencies give them.

Fred
 
Yes bob, I noticed that.... still seems to be the best filter out there.

Ignitionman............. that was a fistful of info:) ...
I'm sure you can help me with this question........
What would cause a stock type point ignition coil to get hot ? .... REAL hot ?
It never quits, ignition seems to operate OK ( although it's not a real critical application ). Just gets hot.
 
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IgnitionMan

Guest
Resistance. A few things as well. Coils do run a bit on the warm, toasty side. Should be very uncomfortable to the hand touch, and you should feel that you don't want to keep your hand on it, but smoking hot, no.

Loose/dirty connections

Input voltage too high, from issues in the charging system, resistor shorting and changing the resisted input voltage

The coil itself having internal insulation issues developing (layer shorting), as the RED Blasters do

Bad ground inside the dist for the points plate (condenser/points ground), ground strap disconnected or broken from the vacuum advance screw to the points plate, oil on plate between points/condenser mount causing compromised grounding

Wrong microfarrad rating condenser in place

Uni-points set of points not operating/grounding correctly. I NEVER use the Uni-point sets, as they have issues with the points springs, condenser, grounding and other problems. I do always use a separate condenser/points set, either Delco, Standard Blue streak, NAPA, Sorenson (their cross-cut points are exellent), Neihoff, and always either cross-cut or vented

Bad distributor body grounding (very rare)

Filed and/or burned points contact faces (filing removes the tungsten coating and allows the contacts to burn faster, dirty contacts raise the resistance in the coil's primary windings, causing the coil to work harder to do the same job it does in a well maintained system)

And anything else I forgot about, which is probably a bunch!
 

dq409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
WOW !!!! I installed my distributor you rebuilt and a MSD 7AL with a new red Blaster coil.
MSD box FRIED and engine would not start !
The 7AL was one I had on my shelf that was checked out by MSD and was a good box. I just figured they goofed!!??
I then bought a 6AL to replace it and the engined fired right up !!

Next time I went to fire it up it would not start,,,,,,?????
Back to the parts house and they check the 6AL and it was dead !!! Gave me a replacement.
The replacement box has been working fine but sometimes the engine runs weird !! I have been trying to figure this out for a while now.
I`m having 1" wood carb spacers made to seperate them from the heat of the engine thinking that the gas was too hot.
I also installed an electric aux fan on the radiator.
The spacers and fan are a good idea to run anyway but now you got me thinking that the coil could be part of my problems.
Any thought on this?,,,,,,,dq
 
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IgnitionMan

Guest
dq, pull that coil and see if it has a "Made in Mexico" sticker on its butt. If it does, there's the problem, and don't feel bad, if it does turn out to be a Mexico coil, you NEVER would have found it until you changed it out of utter frustration.

tm, Holley coil, junk. And as far as just why you see so many brand ads for stuff, Ryobi was purchased lock. stock, barrel, by Home Depot, and they will push their stuff first. I think there is also some sort of special link to Home Depot with Black & Decker as well.

It's all just mass mechandizing, it's all about the money.
 
Thanks Ignitionman.... I'll gather up those points and see if I can plug the gap with the least amount of resistance. I'll then advance to an area where I can condense this energy into a single burst, then put a cap on it, in case the sparks fly.
 
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